If headspace checks out, file a slot and drill a hole for the sight bases in the new orientation and solder them back on. You will need to find another (or several) bolt bodies if the headspace is significantly out of tolerance. Reassembly is the reverse, although you probably don’t need the cheater bar it will need to be very tight on the new receiver.Ĭheck headspace with gauges and a stripped bolt body.
#Mauser k98 barrels free
With the barrel broken free you can ditch the cheater bar and take it off the rest of the way by hand. If not it will likely start to rotate on the vise and you’ll need to reset. If you’re lucky the barrel will break free and rotate with a satisfying pop. With the action wrench in place, I get a 4 foot pipe and slide it over the handle and then get another large man and we both pull on the end of the pipe.
Now, it’s probably a good idea to soak the action in penetrating oil for a day and heat it a bit with a torch before attaching the action wrench, as 70 years of rust and fouling often mean these barrels are not apt to move. The vise needs to be bolted to a solid and heavy object. Use a torch to heat them but don’t get the barrel red hot.Īt that point you want to lock the barrel in the barrel vise, it’s a good idea to sprinkle some powdered rosin on the barrel and wrap it in lead sheet to increase surface contact and friction otherwise the barrel can rotate even with the vise tightened. There’s a cross pin on the front and set screw on the rear base, knock those out, and then the bases are soft soldered to the barrel. Even though you are planning on re-using the barrel, it likely won’t tighten up on the new receiver in the same position as the old, and they will interfere with the barrel vise, so they need to come off. The first step is that you need to take the sights off the barrel. At minimum you need a go and no-go gauge. Gauges will be necessary to check headspace after putting on the barrel. Make sure to have some powdered rosin and lead sheet on hand as well.
Other than standard shop tools, you’re going to need a universal barrel vise and a large ring Mauser action wrench. Mausers aren’t that difficult, but any rifle barrel change where the barrel is crush fit to the receiver rather than using a locking ring (read: old milsurp guns) is a process that I think only the advanced amateur should attempt. r/guns /r/NFA /r/Gunsforsale /r/GunPorn /r/3gun /r/Bladesmith /r/DIYGuns /r/longrange /r/CompetitionShooting /r/ClayBusters /r/guncleaning r/gunnitrust Be aware of your target and what lies beyond.Keep your finger straight and off the trigger until you are ready to fire.Never point a firearm at anything you do not intend to shoot.Treat every firearm as if it were loaded.This sub is to help spread knowledge, please act like it. No conducting firearms-related transactions.No asking questions about illegal firearms modifications.If troubleshooting a firearm, try to post as many images of your issue as possible. Make sure all firearms are clear and unloaded BEFORE you work on them. Welcome to /r/gunsmithing, a community for discussing safe & legal building, repair, modification, and troubleshooting of firearms.